A Week of Photography 11: Advent in Zagreb Through Black and White

Discover the enchanting spirit of Zagreb's Advent as captured through intimate black-and-white photography — a journey of light, motion, and holiday magic in Croatia's capital.

Photograph by the author.

Zagreb, the capital of Croatia, is the city where I was born and where I have lived for 44 years. As such, it holds a special place in my heart because it is my home. One of the landmarks that has made Zagreb particularly well-known in recent years is Advent — the Christmas and New Year’s market that transforms the city into a magical oasis filled with stalls, sparkling lights, ice skating rinks, and various entertainment. The Zagreb Christmas market was voted the best in 2016, 2017, and 2018, and this year it is just as remarkable.

So, let’s embark on this journey together…

My photographic walk began at King Tomislav Square, with a view of the Art Pavilion, in front of which lies the ice skating rink (the introductory image). While perhaps less dynamic than the others, this photograph provides a good contextual introduction, showcasing a scene that is easily recognizable as Zagreb.

The next stop was Zrinjevac, widely regarded as the most beautiful square in Zagreb. At Zrinjevac, I was captivated by the majestic trees, their trunks and branches adorned with twinkling lights, while a band played in the center of the park. One of the photographs captures a drummer shot from behind, an attempt to convey the atmosphere of the musical side of Advent.

Photograph by the author.

After leaving Zrinjevac, I headed toward Zagreb’s main square, Ban Jelačić Square. While observing the passing trams, the idea struck me to try the panning technique — something I almost never do.

I set the shutter speed to 1/15 of a second to capture the dynamic movement while creating a contrast between the blurred background and the sharpness of the tram itself. This technique required patience and precision — finding the right rhythm and following the tram in motion wasn’t easy, but the result was well worth the effort.

Photograph by the author.

In Zagreb’s main square, the atmosphere was alive with dazzling lights, decorations, and a majestic Christmas tree that drew the attention of visitors from all corners. Many were holding cameras and smartphones, engrossed in capturing scenes they found special. As I walked through the square, I discreetly approached a visitor photographing the tallest decorated tree on Ban Jelačić Square with their phone.

This photograph not only showcases the beauty of Advent but also highlights how technology becomes a tool for connecting with tradition and sharing moments with others.

Photograph by the author.

From Zagreb’s main square, I made my way to the nearby European Square, adorned with vibrant stalls offering drinks, sausages, handicrafts, and Christmas decorations. Amid this colorful scene, my attention was drawn to a curious passerby carefully examining winter hats displayed at one of the stalls, while the vendor appeared to be “in her own world.”

Photograph by the author.

At one of the Advent stalls, I encountered a visitor with an imposing, almost “Viking-like” appearance. His serious expression and rustic charm drew me to capture this moment. The aromas of sausages, Croatian mini doughnuts (fritule), and mulled wine enriched the scene, adding depth to the atmosphere.

This photograph perfectly encapsulates the spirit of Advent, blending traditional offerings with unique human stories.

Photograph by the author.

I then decided to gradually bring my photo walk to an end, slowly making my way back to where I had started. Passing by Zrinjevac Park once more, I chose to capture it from a slightly more distant perspective to encompass the entire space in its radiant splendor. The glow of the lights stretching across the imposing trees created an almost fairytale-like impression.

Photograph by the author.

Moving on, I arrived at a crosswalk where I had to wait for the traffic light. It was then that I captured a photograph I consider the best of the series and one of the finest I’ve ever taken.

Cars were passing by, and inspired by my earlier success with the tram photo, I decided once again to use the panning technique to capture the raw energy of motion.

Although one might argue that a photo of a moving car doesn’t quite belong in this series — since Advent is only visible in the form of background lights behind the car — I still chose to include it. Not only because I am proud of it, but also to highlight a common challenge we face: being the judges of our own work and sometimes having to leave out great shots simply because they don’t fit the series.

Photograph by the author.

I applied the same approach while passing by the ice skating rink, where I was drawn to the sight of a skater in motion. This shot stands out for its dynamism and energy, as the blurred movements of the skater contrast with the crisp lights of the Christmas decorations, creating a sense of motion and vibrancy.

This photograph, in a way, symbolizes the essence of Advent — constant movement, excitement, and the magic that can be felt in every corner of Zagreb. And if you imagine ten people in the frame instead of one, you’ll get a glimpse of what it looks like on weekends.

Photograph by the author.

To conclude, I bid you farewell with this photograph of a multi-layered illuminated tunnel composed of geometric frames, whose design creates an impression of infinity and depth.

Luckily, at the moment of shooting, there were almost no passersby, allowing me to position myself calmly and capture the frame with precision. The tunnel’s light forms a stark contrast with the dark background, highlighting its architectural aesthetics and the magical atmosphere that perfectly encapsulates Advent in Zagreb.

For me, this photograph symbolizes the modern holiday spirit and serves as a fitting conclusion to my photographic journey.

Photograph by the author.

With this series, I aimed to capture Advent in Zagreb through more intimate, black-and-white moments. If you wish to experience this event in all its splendor, I warmly invite you to visit and immerse yourself in the glow and warmth of this special time of year.

Gear Used:

For this series, I used the Fujifilm X-E4 with a 27mm f/2.8 lens, which is my usual choice for street photography. However, since it was nighttime shooting, I was tempted to make an exception and bring the Fujifilm X-H2 with a 56mm f/1.4 lens due to its image stabilization and faster aperture. In the end, I opted for the more compact X-E4 for its practicality and discreetness. To capture enough light in the nighttime conditions, I chose to photograph subjects against artificial lighting, which allowed me to keep lower ISO values and achieve an almost graphic quality.

All the photos were shot in RAW format with the Classic Chrome simulation. However, while reviewing the images, I realized that the vivid colors and reds distracted from the intended subjects. As a result, I converted all the photos to black-and-white, which emphasized a nostalgic and intimate atmosphere.

Thank you for reading my story.